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Low-slung, gray, and solid, Ireland’s premier city can look surprisingly dark and gloomy at first glance. Its appearance — the result of its 19th-century architecture of Irish stone and granite — is deceptive. The town itself is anything but gloomy, and it’s not the stodgy, old-fashioned city of the late 20th century. Behind all those sturdy columns and beneath all that gray is the real, modern, Euro-Dublin — an affluent place filled with trendy coffee shops, organic juice bars, pricey five-star restaurants, and expensive designer boutiques. The European money that has flooded in over the last decade changed many things in Ireland, but it altered Dublin most of all, catapulting this historic town from the early 20th century, where it had lingered too long, into the 21st, where it now revels in its own success.