ATM Networks -- Most major banks throughout the country have ATMs. In general, you can get cash with your debit card at any Bangkok Bank, Thai Farmers' Bank, or Siam Commercial Bank -- provided your card is hooked into the MasterCard/Cirrus or Visa/PLUS network.

Business Hours -- Government offices (including branch post offices) are open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm, with a lunch break between noon and 1pm. Businesses are generally open 8am to 5pm. Shops often stay open from 8am until 7pm or later, 7 days a week. Department stores are generally open 10am to 8pm. Most TAT visitor centers are open daily from 8:30am to 4pm.

Drugstores -- Throughout the country, there are many drugstores stocked with many brand-name medications and toiletries, plus less expensive local brands. Pharmacists often speak some English, and a number of drugs that require a prescription elsewhere can be dispensed over the counter.

Electricity -- All outlets -- except in some luxury hotels -- are 220 volts AC (50 cycles). Outlets have two flat-pronged or round-pronged holes, so you may need an adapter. If you use a 110-volt hair dryer, electric shaver, or battery charger for a computer, bring a transformer and adapter.

Embassies & Consulates -- While most countries have consular representation in Bangkok, the United States, Australia, Canada, and the United Kingdom also have consulates in Chiang Mai. See chapters 4 and 12 for details. Most embassies have 24-hour emergency services. If you are seriously injured or ill, call your embassy for assistance.

Emergencies -- Throughout the country, the emergency number you should use is tel. 1699 or tel. 1155 for the Tourist Police. Don't expect many English speakers at police posts outside the major tourist areas. Ambulances must be summoned from hospitals rather than through a central service. You can also contact your embassy or consulate.

Internet Access -- You'll find Internet cafes everywhere in Thailand.

Language -- Central (often called Bangkok) Thai is the official language. English is spoken in the major cities at hotels, some restaurants, and a few smart shops, and is the second language of the professional class.

Liquor Laws -- The official drinking age in Thailand is 18. You can readily buy and drink alcohol, even in supermarkets, but licensing laws apply, and legally, drinks can only be served after 5pm. On some public holidays and election days, no liquor can be sold at all. Most restaurants, bars, and nightclubs sell booze, and you can pick up bottles of imported and local liquor from convenience stores. Night spots must now close at 1am (and the rule is being policed vigorously). Alcohol, hitherto readily sold over the counter anywhere, anytime, is now subject to strict licensing hours.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer will require a police report, or formal record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/847-2911 or 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212.

To report a lost or stolen credit card in Thailand, the following companies' services are available: American Express (tel. 02273-5544); Diners Club (tel. 02238-3660).

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Identity theft or fraud can result from losing your wallet, especially if you've lost your driver's license along with your cash and credit cards. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately; placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. The three major U.S. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (tel. 800/766-0008; www.equifax.com), Experian (tel. 888/397-3742; www.experian.com), and TransUnion (tel. 800/680-7289; www.transunion.com). You must always report any loss of valuables to the Thai police station nearest to the district where the loss took place. If you think the loss took place in a taxi, find a friendly Thai-speaker who can place an alert with the local taxi radio stations. Finally, if you've lost all forms of photo ID, call your embassy for an emergency passport; while this will allow you to board a plane, you will need to get a replacement entry visa too. To be safe, always carry a copy of your passport (and visa) when you travel and make copies of the Thai police report; you will need them for replacement documents and cards.

Mail -- You can pick up mail while you travel by using a poste restante, which is simply a counter at a post office where your mail is kept for you until you pick it up; normally, 2 months is the maximum hold time. For those unfamiliar with this service, it is comparable to General Delivery in the United States. Mail is addressed to you, care of Poste Restante, GPO, Name of City. You'll need proof of ID and must sign a receipt and pay1B (3Ţ/5p) per letter received. Hours of operation are the same as the post office.

Airmail postcards to the United States usually cost 15B (42Ţ/75p), but rates depend on the size of the card; airmail letters cost 19B (45Ţ/95p) per 5 grams (rates to Europe are the same). Airmail delivery usually takes 7 to 20 days.

Air parcel post costs 610B (US$15/ţ9) per kilogram. Surface or sea parcel post costs 215B (US$5.25/ţ3) for 1 kilogram (3 or 4 months for delivery). International Express Mail (EMS) costs 440B (US$11/ţ7) from 1 to 250 grams, with delivery guaranteed within 7 days.

Shipping by air freight is quite costly, but most major international delivery services have offices in Bangkok and a network that extends to the provinces. These are DHL Thailand, Grand Amarin Tower Building, Phetchaburi Road (tel. 02207-0600), and Federal Express, at Rama IV Road (tel. 1782). UPS Parcel Delivery Service has a main branch in Bangkok at 16/1 Sukhumvit Soi 44/1 (tel. 02712-3300). Many businesses will also package and mail merchandise for a reasonable price.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The English-language dailies are Bangkok Post and The Nation, distributed in the morning in the capital and later in the day around the country. They cover the domestic political scene, as well as international news from Associated Press and Reuters wire services and cost 25B (71Ţ/39p). Both the Asian Wall Street Journal and International Herald Tribune are available Monday to Friday on their day of publication in Bangkok (in the provinces, it may be a day later). Time, Newsweek, and The Economist are sold in international hotels, as well as in a few of the major cities.

Passports -- For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at travel.state.gov. For general information, call the National Passport Agency (tel. 202/647-0518). To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 900/225-5674); the fee is 55Ţ per minute for automated information and $1.50 per minute for operator-assisted calls.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children 15 and under), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency. Also contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410, or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk, for info.

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a €12, 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 13 12 32, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

Police -- The Tourist Police (tel. 1699 or 1155), with offices in every city, speak English (and other foreign languages) and are open 24 hours. You should call them in an emergency rather than the regular police because there is no guarantee that police operators will speak English.

Restrooms -- The country's better restaurants and hotels will have Western toilets. Shops and budget hotels will have an Asian squat toilet, a ceramic platform mounted over a hole in the ground. Near the toilet is a water bucket or sink with a small ladle. The water is for flushing the toilet. Toilet paper is not provided, but some have tissue dispensers outside the restroom costing 5B (14Ţ/7p). Dispose of it in the wastebasket provided, as it will clog up rudimentary sewage systems.

Safety -- Anonymous violent crime in Thailand is rare, but it does exist; however, petty crime such as purse snatching or pickpocketing is common. Overland travelers should take care on overnight buses and trains for small-time thieves. Beware of credit card scams; carry a minimum of cards, don't allow them out of your sight, and keep all receipts. Don't carry unnecessary valuables or cards, and keep those you do carry in your hotel's safe. Pay particular attention to your things, especially purses and wallets, on public transportation.

Also be wary of strangers who offer to guide you (particularly in Bangkok), take you shopping (especially to jewelry shops), or buy you food or drink. This is most likely to occur near a tourist sight. Be warned, these are well-known scam artists. There are rare exceptions, but most likely these new "friends" will try to swindle you in some way. If you are approached about such schemes, walk away, or call the Tourist Police immediately.

Smoking -- Over 5 years ago, Thailand banned smoking in public places, such as restaurants and airports. Some bars that don't serve food can get away with smokers, or have created smoker-friendly outdoor spaces, including upmarket private cigar bars. If in doubt, ask about nonsmoking sections. A few years ago, the former Prime Minister Thaksin prohibited the display of cigarettes anywhere. They are still sold but cannot appear on shelves -- you'll have to ask.

Taxes & Service Charges -- Hotels charge a 7% government value-added tax (VAT) and typically add a 10% service charge; hotel restaurants add 8.25% government tax. Smaller hotels quote the price inclusive of these charges.

Time Zone -- Thailand is 7 hours ahead of GMT (Greenwich Mean Time). During winter months, this means that Bangkok is 7 hours ahead of London, 12 hours ahead of New York, and 15 hours ahead of Los Angeles. Daylight saving time will add 1 hour to these times.

Tipping -- If no service charge is added to your check in a fine-dining establishment, a 10% to 15% tip is appropriate. In local shops, tipping is not common. Airport or hotel porters expect tips; 50B (US$1.42/77p) is acceptable. Feel free to reward good service wherever you find it. Tipping taxi drivers is appreciated. Carry small bills, as many cab drivers either don't have change or won't admit to having any in the hope of getting a tip.

Useful Phone Numbers -- The U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory can be called at tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.); the U.S. Passport Agency can be contacted at tel. 202/647-0518; and the U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's hotline is tel. 404/332-4559.

Water -- Don't drink the tap water here, even in the major hotels. Most hotels provide bottled water; use it for brushing your teeth as well as drinking. Most restaurants serve bottled or boiled water and ice made from boiled water, but always ask to be sure. Purified water may not have the minerals you need to replace those lost in the heat and humidity, so check the label.