It's only the size of Connecticut, but Puerto Rico pulsates with more life than any other island in the Caribbean. To the beat of bomba, there's a party going on here 24 hours a day.

The 4 million people who live here believe that having fun is one of the reasons they were born on this dazzling but troubled island. One of the most popular tourist destinations south of Florida raises the rainbow flag to a diverse heritage, beginning with the early settlers, the Taȷno Indians. Their culture later gave way to African and Spanish influences.

That Puerto Rico maintains its culture or identity is just short of a miracle. Its big brother to the north -- that is, the United States -- dominates the island's economy but not its soul. Most Puerto Ricans maintain a love-hate relationship with the States. Although an independence-minded political party favors breaking away completely, the majority of Puerto Ricans, when faced with a decision at the voting polls, don't want to take such a drastic step into the unknown.

Much of the island lives in poverty, but Puerto Ricans have a lot to boast about, including 260 miles of sandy beaches; the third-largest underground cave system on earth; and the world's largest radio telescope, which sends signals into outer space 24 hours a day, hoping ET will call in for a "close encounter." And don't forget its lush Caribbean forests, including the only rainforest (El Yunque) on U.S. territory. There are an astonishing nine protected nature reserves on this so-called "Island of Enchantment," with species of wildlife you won't find anywhere else in the world.

A clue to the Puerto Rican soul is reflected in the national anthem, "La BorinqueɁa." Most national anthems around the world sing of military muscle and a triumph over enemies. Not so "La BorinqueɁa." It sings of "a flowering garden of exquisite magic . . . the daughter of the sea and the sun." Get to know this garden and the people who call it home.