For the aficionado or even the lover of French landscapes, a tour of Burgundy, one of the world's greatest wine-producing regions, is one of the highlights of France. Burgundian vintages have been called le vin des rois, le roi des vins (the wine of kings, the king of wines). You can tour the winemaking towns and sample the finest of chardonnays and pinot noirs along the way. The best centers are Dijon (capital of Burgundy), Beaune, Auxerre, and Autun.
Day 1: Chablis to Auxerre
Begin at Chablis in Burgundy's northwestern edge. Vineyards surround Chablis, the capital of Basse Bourgogne (Lower Burgundy). The town is now more famous for its wine than for its monuments, but it has two historic churches: the Eglise St-Martin and the Eglise St-Pierre. Chablis is not worth an overnight stop, though 15km (9 1/3 miles) to the west along D965, in the hamlet of Tonnerre, is Saint-PȲre, one of the best restaurants in the province. After a meal, backtrack about 24km (15 miles) west on D965 (passing through Chablis) to Auxerre.
Scene of many pivotal moments in French history, Auxerre is the site of one of France's most impressive churches, the Gothic Cathȳdrale St-Etienne. Stay overnight in Auxerre.
Day 2: Vȳzelay
Drive south from Auxerre along N151 and then east on D951 to the hamlet of Vȳzelay. If there's one must-see Romanesque church in France, it's here. Park at the bottom of the village and climb the cobblestone main street. At the base of the hill is L'Espȳrance, one of the best restaurants in the world. It's closed Tuesday and at lunch Wednesday, so plan your itinerary accordingly.
You can spend the night in Vȳzelay; drive 9.5km (6 miles) east on D957 to Avallon, or continue south for 56km (35 miles) on well-signposted country roads to ChȦteau-Chinon. Wherever you spend the night, plan an early departure the following day.
Day 3: Autun
From ChȦteau-Chinon, drive east 32km (20 miles) on D978 to visit one of the oldest towns in France, Autun.
En route, you may wish to take this detour: Heading east on D978 toward Autun, turn right (south) at Arleuf, going right onto D500. At a fork, turn right toward Glux and follow arrows to Mont Beuvray on D18. Take D274 to reach the summit. After 3km (1 3/4 miles) of climbing, you'll be at Oppidum of Bibracte, home of Eduens, a Gallic tribe. Here Vercingetorix organized the Gauls to fight Caesar's legions in A.D. 52. At this altitude (840m/2,756 ft.), you'll have a splendid view of the wine country of Autun and Mont St-Vincent. Leave Mont Beuvray on D274 and continue northeast to Autun.
At Autun, you'll find a historic town with ruins left by the ancient Romans, as well as a cathedral built in 1120 to hold the remains of St. Lazarus. Spend the night here.
Day 4: En Route to Beaune
Start early in Autun and be prepared for tours of chȦteaux, fortresses, vineyards, and other historic sites. Your route will be loaded with appealing detours, so be as flexible as possible as you negotiate a labyrinth of country roads toward Beaune.
Leave Autun on D973 east. After 9.5km (6 miles), turn left onto D326 toward Sully. Here you'll find the ChȦteau de Sully, once known as the Fontainebleau of Burgundy; it's closed to the public, but a view from the outside may satisfy you. The gardens are open Easter to September daily 8am to 6pm. Leave Sully, following signs to the village of Nolay. About 4km (2 1/2 miles) past Nolay, you'll reach the ChȦteau de La Rochepot (tel. 03-80-21-71-37; www.larochepot.com), a medieval-style fortress built during the Renaissance (open July-Aug daily 10am-noon and 2-6pm; Apr 2-June and Sept daily 10-11:30am and 2-5:30pm; Oct daily 10-11:30am and 2-4:30pm; closed Nov-Mar). Admission is 6€ ($7.80) for adults and 3.50€ ($4.20) for children ages 6 to 14.
Now head toward Beaune on D973, passing some well-known vineyards: Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, Auxey Durresses, Volnay, and Pommard. En route, you can detour to a restaurant whose setting is as intriguing as its food. Chagny, 43km (27 miles) east of Autun and 18km (11 miles) southwest of Beaune, rarely attracts sightseers, and serious foodies from all over stop at Lameloise, 36 place d'Arnes (tel. 03-85-87-65-65), for lamb filet in a rice crepe, Bresse pigeon, lemon soufflȳ, and one of the broadest selections of burgundies in France. Reservations are required. It's closed Wednesday all day and at lunch on Tuesday and Thursday.
Continue north to Beaune on D973, which changes to N741. You can overnight in Beaune. If you arrive early enough in the day, you can explore Beaune's historic attractions in 2 1/2 hours, including Musȳe des Beaux-Arts et Musȳe Marey.
Even more intriguing for the wine connoisseur is a visit to one of the cellars for a tour and a tasting. Our favorite is Marchȳ aux Vins, housed in a former church. Its cellars are in ancient tombs under the 14th-century church.
Day 5: Route des Grands Crus
The road visited on this trip is called the Route des Grands Crus, or road of the great wines.
Route N74 continues north 44km (27 miles) to Dijon, but you can make a full day of it because of the stopovers along the way.
This route takes you along the most celebrated vineyards of the CɄte d'Or, which actually stretch from Dijon in the north to Santenay southwest of Beaune, a distance of 60km (37 miles). This is a region of France's greatest wines, and each village has some claim to fame.
As you head north from Beaune, the first village is Aloxe-Corton, where Charlemagne once owned vineyards. The emperor is still honored with "a white wine of great character," Corton-Charlemagne, which is still produced here.
The N74 continues north to the village of Vougeot, known for the quality of its red wines.
In Vougeot, you can visit the ChȦteau du Clos-de-Vougeot (tel. 03-80-62-86-09), surrounded by France's most celebrated vineyards. The 12th-century chȦteau maintains a cellar, open for visits year-round (Apr-Sept Mon-Fri 9am-6:30pm and Sat-Sun 9am-5pm; Oct-Mar Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 9-11:30am and 2-5pm). Admission is 3.50€ ($6.30) for adults and 2.60€ ($4.70) for students and children 8 and older.
The N74 continues north to Dijon, but you can branch off onto D122 to Chambolle-Musigny, where you'll see signs directing you to the town of Gevrey-Chambertin, which lies only 10km (6 1/4 miles) south of Dijon. Nine of the region's 33 Grands Crus are produced here.
Visit the village's main attraction, Le ChȦteau de Gevrey-Chambertin, constructed by the lords of Vergy in the 10th century. In the 13th century, the decaying castle was expanded by the powerful monks of Cluny. The great hall is impressive, with exposed ceiling beams. Look for the guards' room in the watchtower and the collection of vintage wines in the vaulted cellars. English-language tours, ending with a tasting of the prize vintages, cost 14€ ($18). The chȦteau is open Monday and Thursday to Friday 10am to noon and 2 to 5pm, Saturday and Sunday 11am to noon and 2 to 6pm. For more information, call tel. 03-80-51-84-85.
The D122 takes you north into Dijon, where you can spend the night (or a second night if your schedule allows). It takes 4 hours to explore Dijon. If you arrive early enough in the day, you can see half of the town's attractions, visiting the rest of the sights the next morning.
Day 6: Dijon
Surrounded by some of the world's most splendid vineyards, Dijon was the former seat of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy. A university town and regional center today, it has had a long and rich history. Its monumental attraction is the Musȳe des Beaux-Arts, housed in an old palace and boasting a grand collection of European art from the 14th to the 19th centuries. Next, pick up a map at the Office de Tourisme and walk through the historic core of this ancient city. Or, better yet, in our view, spend the day touring the magnificent wine country around Dijon.
Day 7: En Route to Paris
Dijon is one of the major transportation hubs in this part of France, and you can easily return to Paris from here. If you're driving, the distance is 312km (194 miles), which you can do in a morning, reaching Paris to the northwest in time for lunch.