Belfast is 166km (103 miles) N of Dublin, 340km (211 miles) NE of Shannon, 201km (125 miles) E of Sligo, and 422km (262 miles) NE of Cork

For those who grew up in the 1970s and 1980s when Belfast was plagued by violence and political unrest, to think of it now in terms of tourism rather than terrorism requires some mental calisthenics. But try. Because this is an extraordinary time to visit this city, as it is still in the process of picking itself up and dusting itself off after years of strife. Nearly half a million people, a third of Northern Ireland's population, live in Belfast, most of them in neighborhoods segregated by religion. Yet, you really see little sign of any residual religious tension in the city center. In recent years, the center has been polished up, and it is a pleasure to wander its pedestrianized lanes, to shop in the upscale arcades lined with glittering jewelry stores and colorful boutiques, to linger in the historic pubs, and to dine in the Michelin-starred restaurants.

The city is easily divided into walkable quarters: The City Center spreads out from around the impressive, domed City Hall building and bustling Donegall Square. This is the best place for shopping, particularly along Donegall Place, which extends north from the square, onto Royal Avenue. Bedford Street, which travels south from the Donegall Square, becomes Dublin Road, which, in turn, leads south to the University Quarter, the leafy area around Queen's University. This is where you'll find the Botanic Gardens, art galleries, and museums, as well as a buzzing nightlife scene. Heading north from Donegall Place, it's a short distance to the Cathedral Quarter, which surrounds Donegall Street, and holds, as the name implies, the city's most important cathedrals, as well as many vast Victorian warehouses. Finally there's the Golden Mile -- the area around Great Victoria Street beyond Bradbury Place. It's considered the city's best address for restaurants and pubs, although it's a bit hyperbolically named. As one local said to me, "It's not a mile and it's not golden. But it's nice enough."

It's easiest to start in the center and then branch out from there. Perhaps tour the City Hall, then spend some time shopping for linen and china, then a walk to the Cathedral Quarter to take in the architecture, and finally dinner and drinks on the Golden Mile.

The sectarian areas, with the famous IRA and Protestant murals, are just to the west of the city center. The most famous of these are on the Shankill and Falls roads. It's perfectly safe to drive the roads and take photos yourself (locals are quite proud of the murals), or you could take one of the Black Cab tours if you want a guide to explain what it all means.